I'm having trouble understanding/finding information about the brake lines on a mgb. So I'm going to post this so I can prove to myself that I understand what I'm doing.
MGB Brake lines:
- Bubble Flared except where you meet a female nut, then it's a inverted/double flare.
- 3/16 OD ( -3 ) & 1/8 Bore
- Some connecting ends are 3/8 x 24 others are 7/16
Brake lines are flared for male (bubble) or female (inverted/double).
8 Brake lines in total.
3 Female nuts, where connecting to rubber hose, i.e. both front brakes & the connector into the 3 way splitter in the rear.
Rear Brake lines on the axle:
- Right side are 16 inches with two bubble flares & male nuts
- Left side are 46 inches with two bubble flares & male nuts
The 4 way has 3/8 & 7/16 size connectors. From upper left hand corner and clockwise
- 3/8 Master Cylinder
- 7/16 Master Cylinder
- 7/16 Front Brakes
- 7/16 Front Brakes
- 3/8 Rear Brakes
Female 3/8 x 24 nut
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=065.645
Possible solution:
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=home
http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=tech2
Good directions:
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/flaretool/ft-1.htm
See https://www.bmw-mania.com/web/SCatagory/BRAKES/DisplayType/Calver%27s%20Corner/DisplayID/1510/ArticleV.cfm
"There are two types of end - male and female. The male end is convex in shape, the female concave. The male end is used where a male pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - that's a nut with an external thread - that will be screwed into a female fitting such as found in a wheel cylinder or master cylinder. The female end is used where a female pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - a nut with an internal thread - and will be mated to a male fitting such as found on rear flexible brake pipes. "
http://www.theymightberacing.com/ShopTech/FuelBrakeLineFabrication.aspx
Fuel lines.
Rubber are 1/4 ID (near carb's) & 5/16 ID
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Front Suspension
How I installed the coil springs outside of the car.
Used a coil spring compressor from the Advance loan a tool program.
Since the center screw is so long, had to add some wood to shorten up the screw.
Flip the front spar upside down.
Compress the spring with the tool, until you can insert the inward (close to the engine) coil pan bolts.
Continue compressing and using the A-Arms to lever the spring to insert the rear front coil pan bolt and the fulcrum bolt on the side without the sway bar.
Now the final push, compress the spring even more, you might be out of room, i.e. the center bolt might be hitting the bottom of the front spar, or you will be close. I had to just muscle the spring down using the A Arm as a lever to get the front sway bar mount in place and finally the fulcrum bolt all the way through.
Keep everything nice and loose until you get that last bolt in place, then snug things up.
Make sure the grapple arm bolts are not torque down, once you have your spring in place you will have to reach inside of the spring and dismantle the tool within the spring. Expect frustration at this point. The grapple arms may impact the side of the front spar, so angle them with the bolts facing outwards towards you, so that you can access them when you are done.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/steering_suspension/spring_compressor.htm
Note the angle of the tool so it won't hit the front spar plus you have access to the grapple bolts.
Inward coil spring pan bolts installed
I have the bolts holding the "back" A Arm installed, now I have to lever the front A Arm to finish things up.
Note the more wood I had to add.
Make sure you installed the front spar mount bolts before you install your springs. Not sure if you could add them after your springs are installed.
Brakes from Advance, painted with clear coat.
Used a coil spring compressor from the Advance loan a tool program.
Since the center screw is so long, had to add some wood to shorten up the screw.
Flip the front spar upside down.
Compress the spring with the tool, until you can insert the inward (close to the engine) coil pan bolts.
Continue compressing and using the A-Arms to lever the spring to insert the rear front coil pan bolt and the fulcrum bolt on the side without the sway bar.
Now the final push, compress the spring even more, you might be out of room, i.e. the center bolt might be hitting the bottom of the front spar, or you will be close. I had to just muscle the spring down using the A Arm as a lever to get the front sway bar mount in place and finally the fulcrum bolt all the way through.
Keep everything nice and loose until you get that last bolt in place, then snug things up.
Make sure the grapple arm bolts are not torque down, once you have your spring in place you will have to reach inside of the spring and dismantle the tool within the spring. Expect frustration at this point. The grapple arms may impact the side of the front spar, so angle them with the bolts facing outwards towards you, so that you can access them when you are done.
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/steering_suspension/spring_compressor.htm
Note the angle of the tool so it won't hit the front spar plus you have access to the grapple bolts.
Inward coil spring pan bolts installed
I have the bolts holding the "back" A Arm installed, now I have to lever the front A Arm to finish things up.
Note the more wood I had to add.
Make sure you installed the front spar mount bolts before you install your springs. Not sure if you could add them after your springs are installed.
Brakes from Advance, painted with clear coat.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Leaf Spring Straps
I'm replacing the clips that hold the rear leaf springs together. The correct terminology used is "Spring End Clamp Clip" (for mgb 1 3/4 wide).
NAPA, Autozone etc don't carry them, but I've found a online supplier.
I'm not sure how well they will work out but I figured I would pass along what I've found. They are a buck each, plus a buck for shipping.
http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=627&osCsid=lobsov6dp353dr7dv16nkp7u33
fyi: It took me about 8 phone calls & a couple of hours of googling to figure this out...
The straps have a dimple that's opposite of what's needed for the MG, so I drilled out the dimple so the locating "bump" on the spring will hold the strap. Little bit of flat black paint.
Finished springs
NAPA, Autozone etc don't carry them, but I've found a online supplier.
I'm not sure how well they will work out but I figured I would pass along what I've found. They are a buck each, plus a buck for shipping.
http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=627&osCsid=lobsov6dp353dr7dv16nkp7u33
fyi: It took me about 8 phone calls & a couple of hours of googling to figure this out...
The straps have a dimple that's opposite of what's needed for the MG, so I drilled out the dimple so the locating "bump" on the spring will hold the strap. Little bit of flat black paint.
Finished springs
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