Putting the car together.

I've been building brake, clutch, fuel and vapor lines.

I put the front and rear suspension on the car.


How are the nipples soldered onto the fuel lines? trying to figure that out... just normal solder?

answer: apparently silver solder

my solution: I built the fuel line from the tank to the pump with 5/16 line with a bubble flair. Using the original nut's, it feels like I get a good connection. The orig nipple is 5/16 on a 1/4 line, and this is the only area with this connection.. i.e. hard line to a non rubber connection.

update: VB has hoses with connectors... should of used that!

fyi: http://www.streetfire.net/video/An-Mg-Is-Born-Episode-9_731081.htm
Mark Evans. MG is born.









More parts:

Engine Paint

Painted the block the same as the car.


The head is painted black and then clearcoated with a flatening agent... around 15% gloss which is considered eggshell.


The valve cover I powder coated black chrome. I have too many colors in the engine bay... too late now... I think it would of been better to paint the head the same as the block

Paint

I painted the car Toyota Matador Red Mica Dupont-Nason.

I used the Harbor Freight gun, the same one I used to prime with. The first pics are after buffing, while the later a pre-buffing you can see the orange peel. The pics don't do the color justice.



Here's what I've found out about buffing etc on the cheap.


Wet sand. I knew I was going to have a good deal of orange peel (actually not too bad). I made sure I got a good deal of clearcoat on the edges of panels etc to prevent burn through. Harbor Freight 1200 sandpaper is worthless . Go buy 1000 & 2000 3m paper at Walmart of all places. Wet sand 1000 in one direction until all orange peel is gone, then sand 2000 at 90 degrees until all the 1000 scratches are gone. You should have completely flat paint.

Buffing. I got the 7inch polisher from Harbor Freight along with a yellow pad & a couple of bonnets. I used 3m Perfect 2 rubbing compound from a paint shop & meguiars swirl remover from Walmart. Here is what I didn't know. It takes heat to cut clearcoat. Clear coat is hard and the rubbing compound causes a chemical reaction along with the friction heat of the buffer to soften the clearcoat, hence cutting. There should be nothing to wipe when you are done. I used the yellow pad with the rubbing compound, it produces much more heat then the bonnets.

Watch this =>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM_HdRe70Ts&feature=channel

I sanded and buffed my hood three times before I got a good result. My panels are warm to the touch when I am done buffing and I have a reduction in haze and scratches but a increase in holograms.

I used swirl remover with a bonnet. Just take your time and don't be aggressive at this point.


also watch this> [www.youtube.com]




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=744UtkzXdM8&feature=channel

Distributor cleanup & notes (Starter & Solenoid)

Picture of the top of the distributor drive gear that stays in the engine block. See that the bottom half is larger then the top. At TDC, the large half must be to the upper left in the block. Watch the video

John Twist explains install the dizzy...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unlA7pNGUeU




This is the bottom of the distributor that fits into the drive gear. It fits only one way. This is called the "offset drive dog"




In other words, you must install the cam so that the rotor points to cylinder one such that the offset drive dog is oriented with the large offset to the upper left. Additionally you must install the drive gear correctly, the large section to the upper left.

Go directions & pictures: http://simonlacey.com/pages_new/content/distributor%20rebuild.htm

Tested the vacuum advance using a tool from advance auto. It failed, so sending unit out to Advance Distributors to be rebuilt. advanceddistributors.com

Starter:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/MG-Car-Repair-3786/2008/3/starter-solenoid-MGB.htm
Solenoid PULLS to engage, so pull the plunger out of the solenoid to slip it over the arm.





More borrowed stuff..
http://www.seanet.com/users/clauded/tuneup.html

http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/DistributorShaftBushing.htm

There are two possible problem areas not mentioned in the distributor re-assembly instructions. The first is that the hole for the cross pin in the distributor drive dog and in the distributor shaft is normally drilled slightly off center. This means that they are in proper alignment in one position, but slightly off when assembled 180 out. I use a scribe to make a reference mark, or witness mark, on the drive dog and a Sharpie marker to make one on the distributor shaft. The shaft is hardened steel and often does not take a scribe mark.

The second possible problem is when the points cam is installed on the distributor shaft and engages the centrifugal advance weights. The points cam may be installed one of two ways—correctly and one hundred eighty degrees out. To install it correctly, remember that the distributor drive dog “ears” are offset to one side. If the ears are offset towards you, the notch in the points cam should be to your left to allow the rotor, which engages the notch, to point to the number one distributor cap terminal. Other than these two items, I have found no problem areas associated with replacing the distributor shaft bushing.

Building brake lines

I'm having trouble understanding/finding information about the brake lines on a mgb. So I'm going to post this so I can prove to myself that I understand what I'm doing.

MGB Brake lines:

- Bubble Flared except where you meet a female nut, then it's a inverted/double flare.
- 3/16 OD ( -3 ) & 1/8 Bore
- Some connecting ends are 3/8 x 24 others are 7/16

Brake lines are flared for male (bubble) or female (inverted/double).
8 Brake lines in total.
3 Female nuts, where connecting to rubber hose, i.e. both front brakes & the connector into the 3 way splitter in the rear.

Rear Brake lines on the axle:
- Right side are 16 inches with two bubble flares & male nuts
- Left side are 46 inches with two bubble flares & male nuts


The 4 way has 3/8 & 7/16 size connectors. From upper left hand corner and clockwise
- 3/8 Master Cylinder
- 7/16 Master Cylinder
- 7/16 Front Brakes
- 7/16 Front Brakes
- 3/8 Rear Brakes



Female 3/8 x 24 nut
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=065.645


Possible solution:
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=home
http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=tech2


Good directions:
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/flaretool/ft-1.htm

See https://www.bmw-mania.com/web/SCatagory/BRAKES/DisplayType/Calver%27s%20Corner/DisplayID/1510/ArticleV.cfm

"There are two types of end - male and female. The male end is convex in shape, the female concave. The male end is used where a male pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - that's a nut with an external thread - that will be screwed into a female fitting such as found in a wheel cylinder or master cylinder. The female end is used where a female pipe union (nut) is used on the brake pipe - a nut with an internal thread - and will be mated to a male fitting such as found on rear flexible brake pipes. "


http://www.theymightberacing.com/ShopTech/FuelBrakeLineFabrication.aspx


Fuel lines.
Rubber are 1/4 ID (near carb's) & 5/16 ID

Front Suspension

How I installed the coil springs outside of the car.

Used a coil spring compressor from the Advance loan a tool program.
Since the center screw is so long, had to add some wood to shorten up the screw.
Flip the front spar upside down.
Compress the spring with the tool, until you can insert the inward (close to the engine) coil pan bolts.
Continue compressing and using the A-Arms to lever the spring to insert the rear front coil pan bolt and the fulcrum bolt on the side without the sway bar.
Now the final push, compress the spring even more, you might be out of room, i.e. the center bolt might be hitting the bottom of the front spar, or you will be close. I had to just muscle the spring down using the A Arm as a lever to get the front sway bar mount in place and finally the fulcrum bolt all the way through.
Keep everything nice and loose until you get that last bolt in place, then snug things up.
Make sure the grapple arm bolts are not torque down, once you have your spring in place you will have to reach inside of the spring and dismantle the tool within the spring. Expect frustration at this point. The grapple arms may impact the side of the front spar, so angle them with the bolts facing outwards towards you, so that you can access them when you are done.


http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/steering_suspension/spring_compressor.htm


Note the angle of the tool so it won't hit the front spar plus you have access to the grapple bolts.




Inward coil spring pan bolts installed


I have the bolts holding the "back" A Arm installed, now I have to lever the front A Arm to finish things up.




Note the more wood I had to add.


Make sure you installed the front spar mount bolts before you install your springs. Not sure if you could add them after your springs are installed.



Brakes from Advance, painted with clear coat.

Leaf Spring Straps

I'm replacing the clips that hold the rear leaf springs together. The correct terminology used is "Spring End Clamp Clip" (for mgb 1 3/4 wide).

NAPA, Autozone etc don't carry them, but I've found a online supplier.

I'm not sure how well they will work out but I figured I would pass along what I've found. They are a buck each, plus a buck for shipping.

http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=627&osCsid=lobsov6dp353dr7dv16nkp7u33


fyi: It took me about 8 phone calls & a couple of hours of googling to figure this out...

The straps have a dimple that's opposite of what's needed for the MG, so I drilled out the dimple so the locating "bump" on the spring will hold the strap. Little bit of flat black paint.




Finished springs

Putting this together

Axle & Rear Brakes
Transmission
Front Spar
Steering Rack